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Kenozersky National
Park
Facts:
Animals Vegetation
Geographical Features Historical
and Cultural Monuments Visitors
Guide' References
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Animals
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There are 322 species of terrestrial vertebrates in Kenozersky
National Park, including 50 kinds of mammals and 263 birds. Fourteen
species of predators inhabit the park. European lynx (Felix
lynx) and occasionally pine marten (Martes martes)
hunt mountain hare (Lepus timidis), which are particularly
numerous around Kenozero and Lekshmozero lakes. Red fox
(Vulpes vulpes) are quite common, often occupying old
badger (Meles meles) dens. Raccoon dogs
(Nyctereutes procyonoides), introduced here from the
Russian Far East in the 1930s, are now widespread, particularly
in floodplains and second growth forests. The introduced
species has had a devastating impact on birds that build their
nests on the ground or in shallow water, particularly grouse
and ducks. Numbers of gray wolves (Canus lupis)
in the park fluctuate as a result of spring and fall migrations
of moose (Alces alces), but the clearing of forests
for farmlands and livestock has allowed the wolf to proliferate
here over the past half century. Wolverines (Gulo gulo)
also migrate in and out of the park, following the moose herds
and wolf packs; tracks of the animals are noted in the central
parts of the park each spring. The brown bear (Ursus
arctos) is one of the more constant residents of the park,
feeding primarily on plants and berries, but also hunting moose
and wild boar (Sus scrofa) after emerging from winter
hibernation. Among the smaller predators, ermine (Mustela
erminea) and weasel (M. nivalis) are found in most
forest types, where they hunt small rodents.
Boreal field voles (Clethrionomys glareolus), found
in mixed forests and floodplains, are the most numerous of the
small rodents, along with northern birch mouse (Sicista betulina). Red
squirrels (Sciurus vulgaris) are common in coniferous
forests where their numbers fluctuate depending on the abundance
of pine and spruce nuts. Flying squirrels (Pteromys
volans), though not numerous, are found in river valleys
where they are particularly active at night. The Siberian
chipmunk (Tamias sibiricus) is relatively rare, occupying
the western edge of its range. Deciduous and steppe species
such as the harvest mouse (Micromys minutus) and common
field vole (Microtus arvalis) are also found here. A
number of shrews inhabit the park (Sorex caecutiens, S. aranues,
S. minutissimus), generally preferring mature forests with
berries in the groundcover. Although the European beaver
(Castor fiber) disappeared from the region in the 1960s
due to overhunting, the resilient creature has started to make
a comeback in the park’s rivers. Muskrats (Ondatra
zibethica) inhabit most reservoirs, while European water
voles (Arvicola terrestris) inhabit small rivers and
marshy ponds.
The five species of bats found in the park are: pond bat (Myotis
dasycnemei), whiskered bat (M. mystacinus), brown
bat (Plecotus auritus), red frosted bat (Vespertilio
murinus), and the more common northern bat (Eptesicus
nilssoni), which prefers forest clearings and areas along
lake shores.
Four species of reptiles are found in the park. The viviparous
lizard (Lacerta vivipara) is the most numerous, preferring
open areas with plenty of moisture and dense vegetation. Grass
snakes (Natrix natrix) are also plentiful. European
viper (Vipera berus) inhabits rocky areas with high
grasses or shrubs. The blind worm (Anguis fragilis)
resembles a silvery snake, but is actually a legless lizard. Of
the five species of amphibians in the park, two are tritons (Triturus
cristatus, T. vulgaris), inhabiting deciduous forests and
spruce stands near creeks. Common toads (Bufo bufo)
are most prevalent in the floodplains of rivers and creek, where
they lay eggs in warm bodies of water in mid-May. But the
most common of the amphibians is the grass frog (Rana temporaria),
which begin mass reproduction in early May. Moor frogs
(R. terrestris) are less common, inhabiting the edges
of deciduous forests and sphagnum bogs.
The
most numerous birds in the park, typically found in forest and
shrub habitats, are chaffinch (Fingilla coelbs), greenish
warbler (Phylloscopus trochilus), tree pipit (Anthus
trivialis), European robin (Erithacus rubecula),
redwing (Turdus iliacus), fieldfare (T. pilaris),
song thrush (T. philomelos), garden warbler (Sylvia
borin), goldcrest (Regulus regulus), spotted flycatcher
(Muscicapa striata), willow tit (Parus montanus),
siskin (Spinus spinus), bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula),
crossbill (Loxia curvirostra), great spotted woodpecker
(Dendrocopos major), and others. The grouse family
is represented by capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus), black
grouse (Lyrurus tetrix), and hazel hen (Tetrastes
bonasia). Waterfowl and other birds typical for wetland
areas include black-throated diver (Gavia arctica),
mallard (Anas platyrhynchos), teal (A. crecca),
wigeon (A. penelope), tufted duck (Aythya fuligula),
and goldeneye (Bucephala clangula). While birds
are more numerous on Lake Kenozero, species that prefer to build
nests in shallow waters and among reeds find Lake Leshmozero
more suitable. These include the great crested grebe (Podiceps
cristatus), little gull (Larus minutus), black-headed
gull (L. ridibundus), and common tern (Sterna hirundo). Open
hayfields and abandoned farmlands provide habitat for skylarks
(Alauda arvensis), yellow wagtails (Motacilla flava),
whinchats (Saxicola rubetra), lapwings (Vanellus
vanellus), and corncrakes (Crex crex). Black
kite (Milvus korschun) and osprey (Pandion haliaetus)
are often observed in the southern part of the park. Northern
hobby (Falco subbuteo) is more likely to be seen in
the northern part of the reserve. Common kestrel (F.
tinnunculus), northern harrier (Circus cyaneus),
and marsh harrier (C. aeruginosus) fly low across fields
hunting for small rodents. White-tailed eagles (Haliaeetus
albicilla) hunt for fish in the larger lakes.
Twenty-eight
species of fish inhabit the numerous lakes and rivers of the
park, including whitefish (Coregonus lavaretus), pike
(Esox lucius), bream (Abramis brama), burbot
(Lota lota), perch (Perca fluviatilis), roach
(Rutilus rutilus), ide (Leuciscus idus), and
two species of lamprey (Lethenteron kessleri, L. japonica). Cisco
(Coregonus albula) is a local delicatessen which fishermen
salt for the winter in wooden barrels.
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Vegetation
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The flora in Kenozersky National Park consists largely of species
representative of the lower-middle taiga zone. Spruce forests
(Picea abies, P. abovata) with berry shrubs and mosses
in the understory prevail where moisture levels are higher, while
Scotch pine stands (Pinus silvestris) with lichens occupy
drier areas. Bogs and sphagnum swamps occupy lowlands and
depressions. Because of the diversity of the terrain – from
lowlands with high levels of moisture to dry sandy ridges – the
number of plant species is particularly high for the area. In
all, 534 species of higher plants are found in the park, representing
77 genera. Fifty-three species are listed as rare and endangered.
Boreal plant species are widespread in the park, including bilberry
(Vaccinium myrtillus), twinflower (Linnaea borealis),
club-moss (Licopodium annotium), horse-tail (Equisetum
sylvatica), and wood sorrel (Oxalis ocetosella). European
species include wild chervil (Anthriscus sylvestris),
hawk’s beard (Crepis paludosa), tway blade (Listeria
cordata), butterfly orchid (Platantera bifolia),
alder buckthorn (Frangula alnus), and speedwell (Veronica
officinalis). European mountain-taiga species include
shield fern (Dryopteris filix-mas), speckled alder (Alnus
incana), and European trollflower (Trollius europaeus). Monkshod
(Aconitum septentrionale) and baneberry (Actaea
erythrocarpa) grow in spruce forests and forest bogs, while
arrowhead (Sagittaria sagittifolia) and spatterdock
(Nimphaea tetragona) are common in wetland areas. Arctic
species such as Arctic birch (Betula nana), cloudberry
(Rubus chamaemorus), saxifrage (Saxifraga hirculus),
and starwort (Stellaria crassifolia) are also found
in the park. Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis),
spring vetchling (Orobus vernus), garden balsam (Impatiens
noli-tangere), and other plants grow together in the valleys
of forest streams, in overgrown meadows, and in the understory
of second growth forests.
The
plant composition of bogs is relatively diverse with over 54
species of vascular plants and 24 species of mosses. Scotch
pine bogs usually have leather-leaf (Chamaedaphne calyculata)
marsh tea (Ledum palustre), bog whortleberry (Vaccinium
uliginosum), cranberry (Oxycoccus microcarpus),
sheathing cottongrass (Eriophorum vaginatum), and other
species in the groundcover. Sphagnum (Sphagnum spp.)
and other mosses (Polytrichum strictum, Aulacomnium palustre,
and others) also grow on swamps and bogs. Lake shores surrounded
by marshes are overgrown with backbean (Menianthes trifoliata),
marsh cinquefoil (Comarum palustre), reed (Phragmites
australis), and other species. White birch (Betula
pubescens), aspen (Populus tremula), and various
species of willow (Salix spp.) are found alongside spruce
and speckled alder in lowland moors. Numerous aquatic plant
species are found in the various strata of the lakes in the park.
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Geographical Features

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Kenozersky National Park is situated in northern European Russia,
in the Plesetsk and Kargopol districts in southwestern Arkhangelsk
Province. The hilly relief of the region was formed by
glaciers. Valleys strewn with enormous boulders are carved
among high moraine ridges. The park straddles the divide
between the Baltic and White seas, with 90 percent of the water
from the parks’ wetlands flowing into the latter. The
border of the watersheds is marked by a high, steep ridge on
the western side of the park, most clearly seen as a narrow crest
near Lake Lekshmozero.
The park has more than 300 lakes, as well as a number of rivers
and cascading streams, all part of the catchment areas of the
Onega and Vodla rivers. Lakes, formed by tectonic and glacial
processes, make up 14.4 percent of the surface area of the park. Lake
Kenozero, formed by movement of tectonic plates, is the largest
of the lakes, covering nearly 100 km2 and having a maximum depth
of 90 meters. The length of its sinuous coastline, with
many inlets and prolonged peninsulas, extends over 350 km. The
Kena River, from which the lake gets its name, flows out of the
lake. The oval-shaped Lake Lekshmozero of glacial origin,
with its steep sloping shores, is the largest lake in the southern
portion of the park, with an area of 54 km2. Meltwater
is the main source of water for the lakes and spring floods last
from 50-80 days on average.
The climate of the Kenozerye Region is mild continental. Winters
are cold and long with a substantial accumulation of snow. A
short spring is followed by a moderately warm summer and a rainy
autumn. The Arctic seas influence the climate of the park
and winds prevail from the west. The frost-free period
usually lasts 108 days, although in some years it can last as
long as 145 days. Snow blankets the ground beginning in
October, lasting until the end of April. The average temperature
in January is -13 degrees Celcius, rising to an average of 20
degrees Celcius in July. Rain frequently pours from cloud-laden
skies, averaging 564-597 mm per year.
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Historical
and Cultural Monuments
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The richest treasures of Kenozersky
National Park are the cultural and historical landscapes that
have been preserved here for centuries, isolated from the destructive
forces of development, wars, and revolutions. Centuries-old
wooden churches and pastoral landscapes were spared from the
monotony of Communist development and oppression.
Finno-Ugric tribes began to settle what is known as the Kenozerye
Region 3-4,000 years b.c. Archeologists have discovered
nearly 40 ancient settlements from the Neolithic Period (late
Stone to early Iron Age). Findings at these sites include
worn arrowheads, fragments of ceramic dishware, and stone etchings. For
generations, people lived off the bounty of the surrounding
taiga forests and lakes, worshiping the sun and conducting
sacred rites under cover of ancient trees. Centuries
later, towering groves of sacred trees still rise above lake
shores and surrounding villages in small hummocks on the horizon. Here
banner-draped wooden crosses await passing worshipers, who
pray and adorn the branches of towering larch (Larix sibirica)
and pine trees with colorful prayer ribbons. In the 10th
to 12th centuries, Novgorod peoples began to move north, ousting,
but more often assimilating with, local peoples. They
built their orthodox chapels next to the sacred groves. In
time, pagan rituals and Russian orthodox traditions began to
mingle in a single spiritual space.
Today, people live in harmony with nature, as they have for
centuries, preserving the ancient ways, traditions, and culture
of their ancestors. Their wooden houses, often two stories
with farm animals living on the ground floor and the families
above to conserve heat, are adorned with intricately carved
balconies and window shutters. Small wooden chapels with
wooden-shingled cupolas are the central focus of each village. Within,
the dome-shaped ceilings – called “skies” – are
adorned by paintings of saints and scenes from the Holy Scriptures,
and the walls are hung with colorful embroidered cloths and
icons. The scent of wax and incense fills the air as
worshipers pray and sing to mark religious holidays. The
Chapel of the Procession of the Holy Spirit, from the 18th
century is hidden away in a valley in the village of Glazovo,
while the St. Nikola Chapel of the same period stands proudly
on the highest hill overlooking Lake Kenozero in the village
of Vershinino. The tiniest chapel in all of Russia – the
18th century Chapel of the Assumption of The Holy Virgin, off
the road from Tyryshkino Village, is so small that worshipers
can only enter it standing on their knees. In all, there
are 150 cultural and historical monuments in the park, many
of which have been restored thanks to the tireless efforts
of the park and its supporters, particularly the Government
of Norway and regional state agencies.
Local folklore is another guarded treasure of the Kenozerye
Region. Here, epic poems have been passed down orally
from generation to generation for centuries and elderly villagers
can still recite them in detail.
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Visitors'
Guide
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The park’s activities are many-faceted, from researching
the natural ecosystems of the territory, to protecting the
park’s valuable natural resources, to promoting preservation
and restoration of cultural heritage and monuments in the region. The
park hosts children’s ecological camps and supports traditional
folk crafts and art. The park is an active participant
of a number of programs of the Russian-Norwegian Intergovernmental
Commission on Nature Conservation and is an important site
for cooperation among countries of the Barents-European Arctic
Region. A Russian-Norwegian carpentry school successfully
functions in the village of Ust Pocha with support from the
park.
Kenozersky National Park welcomes visitors from the world
over, although the number of tourists is monitored to ensure
minimal impacts on the park’s natural and cultural resources. The
park also encourages cooperation with tour agencies from Russian
and other countries. The park’s capable staff organizes
family, group, and individual vacations, with accommodations
in rustic but comfortable cabins, traditional village houses,
or tents.
The ancient city of Kargopol, just south of the park, can
be reached by car from the Nyandoma train station. Visitors
can spend a day exploring the traditional Russian city with
its nine white stone churches. From Kargopol, visitors
move on to the village of Morschikhinskaya, the southern “capital” of
Kenozersky National Park, flanking Lake Lekshmozero. Guests
can stay in comfortable rooms in the park’s modern visitor’s
center. If you are fond of hiking, the Hizhgora Hill
route, which follows the steep divide between the White and
Baltic sea basins, provides breathtaking views of scenic lakes
and forested hills. At the end of the trail, the wooden
19th century Church of Alexander Svirskoy stands on top of
Hizhgora Hill, the highest rise in the area.
Another more difficult hiking trail takes visitors from the
village of Morschikhinskaya to the old Makarevsky Monastery,
founded by monks in 1640 on the shore of Lake Khergozero. A
30-km logging road from the village of Maselga connects the
southern part of the park with Lake Kenozero in the north. The
road dips and rises through dark coniferous forests, suddenly
emerging in a sunny flowering meadow, where the 17th century
St. George Church stands in the shadow of ancient larch trees
surrounded by high wooden walls with turrets. Another
17th century church and nearby graveyard with a chapel enclosed
by a wooden wall can be seen on the northern border of the
park in the village of Filipovskaya. The administrative
center of the park is located in the village of Vershinino,
above which stands the small 18th century wooden St. Nikola
Chapel overlooking Lake Kenozero. In Vershinino, visitors
can stop in the park’s elaborate visitor’s center,
and stay in rustic but comfortable cabins.
The park provides a wide variety of services to visitors,
from pick up and drop off at the Nyandoma or Plesetsk train
stations (easily accessible from Moscow and St. Petersburg),
boat excursions to the many islands and peninsulas of the lake,
and guided hikes through the woods and to wooden chapels and
pastoral villages. A hot Russian banya (steambath) followed
by a dip in the cool lake and a traditional meal will refresh
you after a day exploring the park and collecting mushrooms
and berries from the surrounding woods. White nights,
when the sun barely dips below the horizon in summer, will
lure you to enjoy the surroundings late into the night. Avid
fishermen will find the bounty of the park’s lakes irresistible. Artists
and photographers will produce their finest works in the serene
and beautiful surroundings of Kenozersky National Park. |
References
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“The Mysteries of Kenozerye.” (leaflet – Russian
and English).
Shatkovskaya, E.F., ed. “Cultural and Natural Heritage
of the Kenozero National Park,” Rügen Druck, Putbus
auf Rügen, Germany, 2002 (leaflet – Russian and English).
Shatkovskaya, E.F., S.V. Torkhov, and D.V. Tormosov. Nature
and Culture [sic] Heritage of Kenozero National Park. PetroPress,
Petrozavodsk, 2002 (Russian and English).
Zabelina, N.M, L.S. Isaeva-Petrova, and L.V. Kuleshova. Zapovedniks
and National Parks of Russia. Logata, Moscow, 1998 (Russian
and English).
Written by Laura Williams.
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