Zapovednik
Facts:
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Animals
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A unique feature of wildlife found in the
Primorye region - a part of the Eastern Asian
temperate zone - is the weaving together of
different species far from their geographical
centers of origin. The Sikhote-Alin Mountains make
up the southern boundary for boreal species like
ermine (Mustela erminea), wolverine (Gulo
gulo), adder snake (Vipera berus), and
chestnut bunting (Emberiza rutila). At the
same time, the mountains are northernmost habitat
of tropical species such as the Siberian tiger
(Panthera tigris altaica) and the Amur wild
cat (Prionailurus bengalensis).
The Siberian - or Amur - tiger is perhaps the
most prized creature in the Sikhote-Alin mountains,
making the endangered cat the prime target of
protection measures in the region. The largest cat
in the world, this subspecies is significantly
larger than its Asian relative, and has a thicker
and lighter-colored coat. More than eight Siberian
tigers live permanently in Sikhote-Alinsky
Zapovednik, and at least as many regularly cross
into its territory. Manchurian red deer (Cervus
elaphus xanthopygos) make up two-thirds of the
big cat's diet; wild boar (Sus scrofa) and
smaller game make up the remainder. Tigers track
prey along rivers and under the cover of trees in
Sikhote-Alin's valleys, zig-zagging up steep
mountain slopes to find shelter on rocky outcrops
or boulder fields. This magnificent creature is
threatened by habitat loss - including logging and
hunting for its food base, and by poaching for its
luxurious fur and bones, used in Asian medicine
practices.
The other cat stalking prey in Sikhote-Alinsky
Zapovednik is the lynx (Felix lynx). This
cat hunts for smaller game like roe deer
(Capreolus pygargus)and Manchurian and
mountain hare (Lepus mandschuricus, L.
timidus). The Manchurian hare - smaller and
with shorter legs than other hares - is found only
in the Eastern Asian temperate zone. Both brown
bears (Ursus arctos) and Asiatic black bears
(U. tibethanus) coexist in Sikhote-Alinsky
Zapovednik, although the former is widespread
throughout Northern Russia and the latter is found
only in East Asia. The smaller Asiatic black bear,
with its characteristic white chest, climbs trees
to feed on leaves and nuts. As the bear eats
nestled in the crook of a tree, it shoves the
stripped branches under its bottom, creating a
collection of debris that is often mistaken for a
nest.
Musk deer (Moschus moschiferus) prefer
high-elevation pine forests where competition for
food is minimal; in winter they browse on lichens
hanging low on trees. These tiny deer often become
prey to the smaller but savage Indian marten
(Martes flavigula). The range of this
strikingly beautiful member of the weasel family -
with its bright yellow throat, black cap, and dark
bushy tail - stretches all the way to the equator.
Sika deer (Cervus nippon) graze in grassy
meadows found in broadleaf forests. Wild boar root
for acorns under oak trees in the valleys and
search for pine nuts on the forest floor in the
mountains. Two species of poisonous snakes - brown
and Ussuri mamushi (Agkistrodon saxatilis, A.
blomhoffi) - sun themselves in openings in the
forest and on rocks. The latter is endemic to the
Primorye region. Northern pikas (Ochotona
hyperborea) prefer rocky terrain above
treeline, where hiding places and subalpine grasses
abound.
Far below the mountain tops, the rugged coast of
the Sea of Japan is home to an interesting array of
wildlife. Larga seals (Phoca vitulina) swim
in the waters off the coast, stopping to rest on
protruding reefs and rocks. Playful otters
(Lutra lutra) splash in streams and small
salt-water coves along the seashore. Up above the
crashing waves, small goat-like Himalayan chamoises
(Nemorhaedus caudatus) thread over rocks and
along narrow crevices. Small rookeries of
spectacled guillemot (Cepphus carbo) and
Temminck's cormorant (Phalacrocorax
capillatus) - both endemic birds to the region
- come to life in spring along the coast. Besides
seabirds, Pacific swift (Apus pacificus) and
hill pigeon (Columba rupestris) nest in
numbers in the coastal cliffs. The endangered
white-tailed sea-eagle (Haliaëetus
albicilla) soars above the shore year round.
Further inland, subtropical birds such as ashy
minivet (Pericrocotus divaricatus) and
Chinese white-eye (Zosterops erythropleurus)
nest in low-lying broadleaf forests. The
brightly-colored Eastern broad-billed roller
(Eurystomus orientalis) is found mainly in
floodplain forests, where it nests in tree dens.
Common cross-bill (Loxia curvirostra),
Siberian jay (Perisoreus infaustus), and
Northern three-toed woodpecker (Picoides
tridactylus) are common residents of mixed
spruce and fir forests, whereas spotted-nutcrackers
(Nucifraga caryocatactes) prefer Siberian
pine forests. White-throated rock thrush
(Monticola gularis) thrive in sub alpine
pine groves, venturing to higher elevations than
other forest-dwelling birds. Hodgson's hawk-cuckoo
(Cuculus fugax), found from the Sikhote-Alin
mountains to the tropics of southern Asia, prefers
to nest in alpine tundra, despite the fact that the
bird is essentially a tropical species. Eurasian
scops-owl (Otus scops), collared scops-owl
(O. bakkamoena), and the endangered
Blakiston's fish owl (Ketupa blakistoni) are
just a few of the many owl species in
Sikhote-Alinsky Zapovednik.
In all, scientists have identified 62 species of
mammals, more than 320 birds, 13 reptiles and
amphibians, and more than 30 species of fish in the
zapovednik. Many of these species have narrow
ranges, and are considered rare or endemic to the
southern Far East region. Rare and endangered
animals protected in the zapovednik include the
Siberian tiger, Asiatic black bear, and Himalayan
chamois. Rare birds include Chinese merganser
(Mergus squamatus), mandarin duck (Aix
galericulata), white-tailed sea eagle, Siberian
spruce grouse (Falcipennis falcipennis), and
Blakiston's fish owl.
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Vegetation
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Nearly 99% of Sikhote-Alinsky zapovednik is
forested, and vertical gradations of vegetation
types are clearly visible. As the mountains ascend
from the sea, the narrow strip of coastal plants
and shrubs gives way to a wide band of oak forests
dotted with open meadows. Higher up, mixed
broadleaf and pine forests are replaced by fir and
spruce. Thickets of mountain pine (Pinus
pumila) and alpine tundra vegetation dominate
mountain tops. Siberian pine (P.
sibirica) and broadleaf forests are especially
diverse with multiple layers of vegetation, mainly
of Manchurian flora types. Many forms of deciduous
trees are endemic to the area.
Coniferous forests dominate in the
Sikhote-Alinsky Zapovednik - Korean pine (P.
koraiensis), mountain pine, Yeddo spruce (Picea ajanensis),
and Khingam fir (Abies nephrolepis) are the
most common types of evergreen trees. Two species
of larch (Larix spp.) are found in remote
mountain areas and along the coast. In the valleys
of larch forests, Japanese elm (Ulmus
japonica) grows up to 30 meters tall, while its
smaller relative, Manchurian elm (U.
laciniata), sprouts in pine stands. Mongolian
oak (Quercus mongolica), which grows in
impenetrably thick stands near the Pacific coast,
is the only representative of its family found in
the zapovednik. Eleven species of birch grow in the
reserve, including Dahurian birch (Betula
dahurica) - found in dry oak-pine forests, and
yellow birch (B. costata) - found in shady
pine-broadleaf forests. Erman's birch (B.
ermanii) is common in alpine areas. Manchurian
walnut (Juglans mandshurica) spreads its
wide crown in the valleys of broadleaf forests. Its
thick-shelled walnuts contain more than 50% fat.
Japanese poplar (Populus maximowiczii)
trees, with their massive column-like trunks, line
river valleys. Four species of maple, including
mono maple (Acer mono), yellow maple (A.
ukurunduense), Amur maple (A. ginnala),
and manchus maple (A. tegmentosum) are found
in the reserve; their crowns transform into a
beautiful kaleidoscopic of gold, orange, and red in
autumn.
Lovely green shoots from the ancient club-moss
family (Lycopodium spp.) spring from the
ground under a shady canopy of fir, spruce, and
pine. Ferns form a bright green layer on the forest
floor. Brake fern (Pteridium aquilinum),
common in birch and oak forests, is widely used as
a food item in the Russian Far East and Asia.
Buckler and oak ferns (Dryopteris spp.) are
common in coniferous forests, while the ancient
sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis) prefers
moist forested valleys. The large, colorful
blossoms of lilies, orchids, and irises paint
meadows in pearly-white, pink, violet, and red.
Many of these flowers have medicinal uses.
The only representative of the ancient yew
family is the endangered Japanese yew (Taxus
cuspidata), found individually in the shady
understory of coniferous-broadleaf forests. A few
small groves of Japanese yew flank the upper
reaches of the Shanduisky and Nechet rivers, as
well as the coastal area near Molenny Pass. Daurian
juniper (Juniperus daurica) and mountain
cypress (J. sibirica) grow on rocky passes
and mountain tops in shrub-like forms, tolerant to
harsh soil and climate conditions.
Although plant life in the zapovednik has yet to
be researched in its entirety, scientists have
identified more than 1000 species of higher plants,
214 species of lichens, 100 species of mosses, and
384 species of mushrooms. The zapovednik harbors
many rare species of plants, listed in the Russian
Red Book. Two species of rhododendrons
(Rhododendron sichotense, R. faurieri) are
endangered, as well as lady's slipper and yellow
lady's slipper (Cypripedium macranthon, C.
calceolus), and three kinds of peonies
(Paeonia spp.). Seventeen species of plants
are considered rare in the Russian Far East and
Primorye Province, including those used medicinally or
for decoration such as Chinese magnolia vine
(Schisandra chinensis) and rose-root
stone-crop (Rhodiola rosea).
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Geographical
Features

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Sikhote-Alinsky is the largest zapovednik in the
southern half of the Russian Far East. The reserve
is located in the remote northeastern portion of
the Primorye Province, encompassing the Eastern and
Western slopes of the Middle Sikhote-Alin Mountain
Range and a stretch of coastline of the Sea of
Japan.
Mountains recede into mountains as far as the
eye can see, divided only by the fissures of
valleys and canyons. A closer looks reveals that
steep slopes are covered with a chaotic tumbling of
rocks and boulders, while more gentle slopes are
carpeted with lush green forests. Within the
labyrinth of mountains, ridges, and spurs of
similar height, a few tall peaks lunge above the
landscape like islands in a turbulent sea. The
tallest of such "islands" in the reserve is the
Glukhmanka Peak, reaching 1,598 meters above the
nearby sea. The giant peak towers above the chain
of lower mountains, which ranges from 500 to 800
meters above sea level. Mountains occupy more than
80% of the zapovednik. The remainder is nearly flat
bottoms of valleys and a thin strip of seashore. On
much of the coast, the mountains fall abruptly into
the sea, in places sheer cliffs drop 100 meters or
more. At the mouths of the Serebryanka and
Dzigitovka rivers, wide valleys open onto the sea.
Water collects in swamps and lakes in these
lowlands.
The largest river on the western slopes of the
zapovednik is the Kolumbe, which flows into the
Ussuri River. The mountain river has an unusually
calm current with many wide sandy bends. Many
creeks and streams flow from the mountains, fed by
the large amounts of precipitation caused by the
proximity of the sea. More than 80% of
precipitation falls during the summer rainy season,
and August is the wettest month of the year. In
wintertime, cold northern winds blow down to meet
the warm sea air, causing persistent winds from the
northwest. The first snows fall in the high
mountains in late September and early October. A
white coat usually cloaks the slopes and valleys
from the end of November to April, when spring
thaws send meltwater rushing down to the sea.
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Conservation
Status
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Although six times smaller now than pre-1951,
when Stalin shook the zapovednik system with a wave
of reserve closures and territorial changes,
Sikhote-Alinsky remains the largest zapovednik in
the Primorye Province Extending like a sea of
untouched forests for tens of miles, the reserve is
filled with all forms of life. No other zapovednik
in the southern half of the Russian Far East
parallels Sikhote-Alinsky's remoteness from centers
of human activity. Humans have not visited some
parts of the zapovednik for many years. The
pristine state of Sikhote-Alinsky's ecosystems was
brought to the attention of the international
community when UNESCO awarded the reserve biosphere
status.
The shrinking of Sikhote-Alinsky's territory in
1951 has resulted in the weakening of the reserve's
role in preserving the endangered Siberian tiger.
The territories of several tigers that inhabit the
reserve go well beyond its borders, complicating
the zapovednik's efforts to protect the species.
Although some scientists argue that the area of
Sikhote-Alinsky Zapovednik should be restored to
its pre-1951 size, more realistic activists call
for the reserve to be enlarged to twice its current
size. The wide valley of the Dzhigitovka River to
the south of the reserve should be added in order
to increase protection of territories of individual
tigers, as well as the Tayozhnaya and Kema river
basins to the north to preserve important brown
bear habitat.
Considering that the range of a male tiger can
be anywhere from 600-1000 square kilometers,
protection of the animals within zapovedniks alone
is not enough. Poaching and habitat loss due to
logging in the Primorye region must be brought
under control to save the species. Siberian tigers number around 450, according to annual census data. Sikhote-Alinsky Zapovednik plays the most
significant role of any reserve in the Russian Far
East in protecting Siberian tigers and their
natural habitat.
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References
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Zapovedniks of the USSR: Zapovedniks of the
Far East. Sokolov, V.E., and E.E.
Syroechkovsky, Eds. Mysl publishing agency. Moscow,
1985.
Zapovedniks and National Parks of Russia.
Zabelina, N.M., L.S. Isaeva-Petrova, and L.V.
Kuleshova. Logata publishing agency. Moscow, 1988.
Text written by Laura
Williams.
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